Hook:                                           Tiemco 100BL (for straight body) #'s 10-14
                                                                Tiemco 2457 BL (Curved body) #'s 10-14

Thread:                                        Black 8/0 uni thread

Beadhead:                                   Gold bead sized to match the hook

Tail:                                              Black Goose Biot

Ribbing:                                       Fine Cooper wire

Body:                                           Hareline Ice Dub UV purple dubbing or
                                                    Hareline STS Trilobal Dub purple

Wings:                                         White Goose Biot

Hackle: (optional)                        Gray Partridge

1. Secure the beadhead by a number of wraps of thread to create a ball of thread behind the bead and then push the ball forward to push and hold the bead against the eye of the hook.

2. Wind the thread back to the bend of the hook (straight body) or to about the point the hook has curved down 30-45 degrees (curved body), and tie in the goose biots on either side of the hook, the curve of the biot bending outward.  The tail should be about half the length of the body-head length.
 

3. Tie in one end of the copper ribbing wire with two or three turns of thread where the tails are tied in.  I usually use a long piece of wire (perhaps 8-10 inches) so I can tie a number of flies until the piece gets too short to use.
 

4. Using your favorite dubbing tool, make a dubbing loop of thread about three inches or so long and tied in just ahead of the tail tie-in, place and spread the dubbing material fairly thinly in the loop, and twist the loop with the tool so that you've created a thin and moderately tightly wound "yard" of dubbed material.  The tighter the loop is wound, the thinner the yarn.  After a few tries, you'll get the hang of how much material to use and how tight to wind.  You don't want a fat fly.
 

5. Wind the dubbed yarn forward to form the body and tie off at the back of the beadhead.
 

6. Counterwind the copper ribbing to the same place (5 or 6 turns usually) and tie off.
 

7. Tie in two white biots, one at a time (the curves bending downward) on top of the fly at the back of the beadhead and so that each wing extends just short of the back of the hook and at a slight outward angle, to form a narrow "V" looking from above.  I clip the tag ends of the biots as close to the thread wraps as I can and bend the remaining tags backward over the thread wraps and tie them down with two or three more wraps to hold the wings solidly in position.
 

8. If you prefer to stop now, you can call it done, and finish and cement the head thread.  Many patterns of Prince Nymph have no hackle and work just fine.  I tie some with, and some without, just cuz I can.  If you want to add some "legs", tie in the butt end of a small grouse feather at the back of the bead with the curve of the feather facing the back of the fly, and make two turns and tie off and clip the excess.  The "legs" shouldn't be longer than the body, and I'll warn you that it's hard to find a properly sized feather and harder to gently grip its tip with a hackle pliers and make the two turns without fouling up a number of tries, and blurting out things best said without an audience.  But that's how we learn, and progress, so you should give this last setp a try at some point.  If successful, then finish with several more thread wraps over juuuust the tiniest bit of father splines, so that the splines are held curving backward and not straight out like a dry fly hackle.  Finish and cement the head and you're done!

This fly fishes well in lakes on a slow 4-6 inch retrieve, or in streams with a down and across drift.